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Sylmar Drywall Preperation
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Before covering up your walls with drywall, you will need to get an inspection done on your mechanical work and insulation. This is necessary to make sure your work is complying with all building codes.
Climate conditions can be a factor in your drywalling job.
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Temperature and humidity can affect the performance of the joint treatment materials. Your house temperature should be maintained at a minimum 55 degrees for 48 hours before and 48 hours after the completion of the drywalling. And in humid areas, ventilation should be provided.
The delivery of drywall panels should coincide with the installation schedule. In new construction, drywall is not applied until after the windows and exterior doors have been installed.
Frame & Nailers
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Make sure that all your studs and joists are straight, secure, and spaced properly. The nailing faces should all be flush and aligned in a level plane. Excessively bowed or crooked studs or joists should not be used.
Cross furring should be used to correct surface unevenness in the existing framing.
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There should be nailers at every corner; on both sides of vertical corners and headers. No edge of drywall should go unsupported for more than two feet.
Non-loading walls, and vaulted and trayed ceilings are usually trouble spots for nailers.
Insulation and Vapor Barriers
Before covering up your walls, you want to be sure that the proper insulation and vapor barriers are in place.
If you have "un-faced" insulation batts in your exterior walls make sure that you put a vapor barrier up. This will prevent moisture from condensing inside your walls. In colder climates, the vapor barrier goes on between the insulation and the drywall, in warm climates it goes between the sheathing and the insulation to keep it dry during warm weather.
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Nailing In Metal Plates
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If a pipe or wire runs through a hole in a framing member, and the hole is within 1-1/4" of the edge of the wood, place a 1/16" metal protective plate along the edge of the wood. This will prevent drywall screws and nails from puncturing the pipe or cable. This is a code requirement in most areas.
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Sylmar Drywall Safe
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Gypsum dust can cause eye and respiratory irritation. Protect your eyes and lungs. Wear safety glasses and particle masks when appropriate and provide proper ventilation for the work site.
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Know your tools and use them only on jobs they were specifically designed to handle.
Dull tools are unsafe and can harm the work. Always work with sharp cutting blades. Maintain your tools and always disconnect the power when working on a tool.
Use caution when working from saw horses, scaffolding or ladders. Make sure the ladders' feet are secure on the ground. Never attempt to stretch while on a ladder.
Keep children away from the work area and power tools as well as harmful materials, adhesives and solvents.
Keep a clean work site and don't let debris accumulate.
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Sylmar Drywall Cutting
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Use full sheets of drywall whenever possible. Cut the length of the sheet so that the end falls in the center of a joist or stud.
To cut a sheet for length, first set it upright with the finish side out. Measure out the length with a tape measure. Then using a drywall T-square on that mark as a guide, score the front side with a utility knife.
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Snap the drywall back. It should break apart right at the cut. That doesn't cut the paper on back, though, so to finish the cut run the knife blade down the back side to cut the waste free.
Making cuts along the length of a sheet is a little trickier. One way is to snap a chalkline along the sheet and then score the line by hand. Be aware, though, that sometimes the chalk will bleed through the paint. If you have an 8' straight edge that would work, too.
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Another way to make this kind of cut is with a tape measure. Hold the tape measure in your left hand with your thumb and fore finger at the dimension you want. Hold the blade of your utility knife under the end of the tape, holding it against the hook. Now run your left hand across the top of the board, and score the drywall with the knife. This is not a super-accurate method, but it's good enough for hanging drywall.
When you need to cut inside corners, cut one side with a drywall saw. Then score the other side with a utility knife and snap it back like you would any other cut.
Another way to cut inside corners is to first install the piece, then cut it with a drywall saw along the framing.
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Cutting For Light Switches and Outlets
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Cutting holes in drywall for lights, switches and outlets requires careful measuring and marking.
For round light fixtures, like recessed lights, measure from the edge of where the drywall sheet will go to the center of the circle. Do this from both the side and top. Then transfer these measurements to the sheet of drywall.
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Use this mark for the center of your circle hole cutter. Also measure the radius of the round fixture to set the arm length of the cutter. Score the circle several times, then tap it out with a hammer.
You can also use a compass to draw the circle and a keyhole saw to make the cut.
For switch and outlet boxes, measure from the side edge of where the sheet will go to the right and left side of the box. And measure from the top edge to the top and bottom of the box. Transfer these to the sheet of drywall and cut it with a keyhole saw.
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Sylmar Drywall Hanging
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When hanging drywall always work from the top to the bottom. And always run the drywall sheets perpendicular to the framing.
Hang drywall on ceilings before walls, so the sheets on the walls can help support the corners of the ceiling sheets.
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Mark joist locations on top plates of the walls so the joists are easier to find when fastening ceiling sheets.
Then mark the stud locations of walls on the ceiling sheets and on the floors so they're easier to find when fastening the wall sheets.
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Building codes have very strict regulations about how many fasteners need to be used to attach drywall.
Nails are the easiest to use for do-it-yourselfers who are not comfortable with a screw gun.
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For 1/2" drywall, use 1-1/4" ring shank nails. This type of nail holds better into wood framing and prevents "popping" later on .
Use a drywall hammer to set the nails. It has a rounded head that sets the nails just a little below the surface and leaves a shallow dimple without breaking the paper on the drywall. This dimple then gets filled in with joint compound later.
With nails you usually need one every 7 inches on ceilings and every 8 inches along walls. This may not be enough, depending on the thickness of the drywall and the spacing of the joists or studs.
Using drywall screws can go a lot faster, if you have the right tool. You want to use a special electric drywall screw gun that lets you adjust it to sink the screws a little below the surface.
Screws are stronger than nails. You usually only need to use one screw every 12 inches along the ceilings and every 16 inches on walls.
- TIP: Trying to pry out a bent nail may tear up more drywall than it's worth. Just nail it in so it's not sticking out from the surface and then mud over it later.
We've usually found that's it's easiest to use nails along the edges to get the sheets up, then go back and use screws "in the field."
Getting sheets of drywall up to the ceiling can be tricky. And once you get them up, holding them in place while you screw or nail them is another challenge. You'll need the help of a drywall lift or drywalls jacks for this...although some people just use their heads!
Once you get a sheet in place, just nail or screw around the edges of the sheet. Then you can take the lift or jacks away (or give your head a rest if you're using that).
You can wait until all the sheets are up to put the fasteners in the middle. Although, sometimes it's easier to do this right away because you can see better where the joists are.
When fastening around the edges, keep the screw or nail at least 3/8" back from the edge so you don't fracture the drywall.
Start the ceiling using full sheets, and cut them so the edge is centered on a joist.
Stagger the joints between sheets from row to row, this will make your walls stronger.
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Hanging Drywall on the wall
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The rules for hanging drywall on walls are basically the same as those for hanging ceilings.
It works best to have two people to lift sheets up to the top row.
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Start nails across the top of a sheet before lifting it. This leaves both of your hands free to lift the sheet and nail it in place.
Conventional wall framing leaves 8 feet 1-1/8" between the subfloor and the bottom of the trusses or joists. With two rows of drywall, you have about a 1/2" gap left. Normally you should leave this at the bottom of the wall where it'll be covered up by the baseboard.
To hold the bottom row snug up to the top while fastening the sheet, use a little lifter with your foot.
Around window and door openings, you want to avoid creating joints at the corners. This will weaken the wall and will be more likely to crack at those joints.
If you're working around the top of a shower or tub that's got a flange, you want to install the drywall or backerboard over the flange. Before doing this, fur out the studs with strips of masonite so you have a flush surface to attach the drywall or backerboard to.
Getting The Right Joints
A real important thing to remember when hanging any drywall is to line up the joints right.
The "factory edge" of a drywall sheet is the finished, smooth edge made at the factory. The edges are also beveled, so when they butt together you get a nice recess for filling in the joints. This way the joints end up flush with the sheet, rather than having a build-up. So ideally, you always want a factory edge next to a factory edge.
Cut edges should be butted together. They call this a "butt-joint." Before taping and mudding butt-joints, some people will "vee" them out with a utility knife to make a recess. This helps eliminate having a "hump" where the joint is.
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Special Hanging
When you have soffits to drywall, hang the bottoms of the soffits with the ceiling and the sides of the soffits with the walls.
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Soffits that are open to the floor or ceiling above them, can cause a serious fire hazard. A fire in an open soffit can easily travel up to the ceiling or floor above. You want to drywall inside the soffit so fire will not move up as easily.
If you have framing for a pocket door, be careful not to poke the nails or screws into the area where the door will slide. Use shorter fasteners if necessary.
When drywalling a bathroom you might need to install greenboard or concrete backerboard. These install in much the same way as drywall.
You may have walls taller than eight feet. In this case you will probably have a narrow strip left after two rows of drywall. This thin strip is called a "ripper
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Where you put the ripper depends on a variety of factors. You may want to put the ripper on top instead of on the bottom so you don't have to bend over when taping. Put it on the bottom if you have several things breaking up the wall, like doors or a fireplace, so you don't have as many joints. And if your ripper is only a few inches wide, you may want to put it in the middle of the wall. That way you end up with two joints close together and you can combine them into one wider joint.
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Don't be tempted to buy longer sheets and run them vertically. You should always run the sheets perpendicular to the framing.
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Instaling Corner
Outside corners can get damaged easily so you want to protect them with a metal corner bead. Do this before starting the tape coat.
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Wrap the corner bead around the corner and check to be sure it's plumb. Adjust it if it's not. Nail it in about every 8 inches making sure you hit the wood framing.
The corner bead will get covered up in the finishing process.
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Sylmar Drywall Hanging
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Before starting the taping process, make sure corner bead is installed on all outside corners.
Also make sure that all the fastener heads are sunk below the surface of the drywall. You can check them by running a taping knife over the drywall. If you hear a "click" you've got a nail or screw that needs to be sunk deeper. Just give the nails an extra tap, or give the screws a twist with a phillips-head screwdriver.
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Professional tapers sometimes notch out the butt joints so they have more space for the first pass of joint compound. This helps eliminate the "hump" that you might get when taping these joints.
The entire finishing process is about a 4-step, 4-day process. The first step is called the "tape coat." This is when you apply joint compound to the seams and embed paper joint tape in it.
First Pass of Tape Coat
Mix up your joint compound. If you're working with pre-mixed compound, don't mix it too much, this can work air into the mixture and then you can get little bubbles and craters on the surface of the wall.
Starting on the ceiling, first spread out a layer of "mud", as the professionals call it, over the joints. For this first coat use a 5" or 6" taping knife.
Be generous with the mud at this point. Spread out more than you need to fill the seam.
- TIP: The trick to spreading out mud is to hold the knife almost vertical to the drywall when it's full of mud, and press it flatter as you move along the joint. This spreads the mud evenly over the whole stroke of the knife.
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Embedding Joint Tape
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For the second pass, lay a piece of joint tape over the center of the joint. Press it lightly with your hand--just to make it stick for now.
Then go back and flatten the tape into the mud, working from the center of the joint out to the sides.
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You can use pretty firm pressure with this stroke. You'll end up scraping off some of the excess mud, just leave some mud under the tape.
- TIP: As you tape, keep your knife clean. Constantly scrape it off the side of the pan. Mud that stays on your knife will dry out faster.
The last step for the tape coat is to spread a very thin layer of mud out on top of the tape.
This requires a gentle touch. The layer should be thin enough that the tape is still visible through the mud.
Don't worry too much about a few grooves and streaks on the surface for now. There'll be more coats to smooth it out later.
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